Old halogen downlights running hot and costing a fortune to run, or one dim ceiling light trying to do the work of a proper lighting plan for the whole room. Halogens in particular are worth replacing sooner rather than later, since they run hot enough to be a genuine fire risk where they’re surrounded by roof insulation.
Why this comes up
Old halogen downlights that run hot and use far more power than LED equivalents.
A room that has always felt poorly lit despite having a light fitting.
Wanting dimming that the existing fittings don’t support.
A renovation or new build needing a lighting plan from scratch.
A room repainted or renovated, making the old fittings look dated by comparison.
Wanting to reduce the electricity bill without changing how the home is used day to day.
How we handle it
Work out what each area is actually used for before choosing fittings, rather than defaulting to a generic layout.
Plan positions and switching, including two-way switching where it makes sense.
Recommend colour temperature and beam angle suited to each room, not just a single default across the whole house.
Install, including drivers and dimmers where needed for the fittings chosen.
Test, certify, and set dimming levels together with you before we finish.
What to expect
A single room is normally a day’s work. Ceiling access and whether there’s a room above drive the timeline more than the number of downlights themselves. We’ll also talk through colour temperature with you, since a cool white in a living room can feel clinical where a warmer tone suits the space better. Multiple rooms done together take longer overall but cost less per room than spacing the work out over separate visits.
What it costs
Depends on fitting count and access. Loft above makes it considerably cheaper than working entirely from below through a finished ceiling. Higher-spec fittings with better colour rendering cost more upfront but are worth it in rooms where lighting quality actually matters, like kitchens and bathrooms.
Common questions
Are halogens worth replacing?
Yes. They run hot enough to be a genuine fire risk near insulation, and LEDs use a fraction of the power for the same light output.
Can I dim LEDs?
Only with dimmable fittings and a compatible dimmer. Mismatched pairs flicker and buzz, so it’s worth getting matched from the start.
How many downlights does a room need?
Depends on the room and how it’s used. We plan positions based on actual layout, not just an even grid across the ceiling.
Can you replace downlights without damaging the ceiling?
In most cases, yes. Existing holes can usually be reused if the new fitting is a similar size.
Do LED downlights need maintenance?
Very little. They typically last many years longer than halogens and don’t need the same regular bulb replacement.
What colour temperature should I choose?
Warmer light (around 3000K) suits living areas and bedrooms, cooler light (4000K plus) suits kitchens, bathrooms, and garages where task lighting matters more.
Can I mix downlights with pendant or feature lighting?
Yes, and it usually looks better than downlights alone. We can wire feature lighting on its own switch so it’s controlled separately.