A new oven, hob, or immersion heater that needs connecting properly, or an old hardwired appliance that’s being replaced and needs disconnecting and reconnecting safely. It’s tempting to assume any appliance connection is straightforward, but the circuit behind it has to be rated correctly for what you’re installing, and that’s not always obvious just by looking at the old one.
Why this comes up
A new oven, hob, or immersion heater that needs a proper, code-compliant connection rather than a makeshift one.
An old hardwired appliance being replaced as part of a kitchen or utility room renovation.
An appliance manual specifying an outlet or isolation switch that doesn’t currently exist.
An existing connection that was never tested or certified when it was first installed.
Moving into a new home and wanting existing appliance connections checked before relying on them.
An appliance installer who won’t connect the unit without a qualified electrician signing off the circuit first.
How we handle it
Check the existing circuit and isolation switch can safely carry the new appliance.
Hardwire the appliance or fit the correct outlet to the manufacturer’s specification.
Test the full connection under load, not just visually.
Certify the work and confirm operation with you before we leave.
What to expect
Most single-appliance connections are a short visit, usually under two hours. Upgrading the circuit for a larger appliance, like a new induction hob replacing an old gas one, takes longer because the run has to go back to the consumer unit, sometimes with a new dedicated circuit. We’ll also check the isolation switch is easily accessible, since that matters if the appliance ever needs to be serviced or replaced again down the line.
What it costs
Priced per appliance for a straightforward swap-and-connect. Anything needing a new dedicated circuit, extra cable run, or consumer unit capacity is quoted after we’ve actually checked the board, not guessed over the phone. If we’re on site for more than one appliance, such as a new oven and a new dishwasher in the same kitchen renovation, doing them together on the one visit keeps the overall cost down.
Common questions
Can I connect the oven myself?
No. Hardwired appliance work has to be done by a qualified electrician and certified, both for safety and for your home and contents insurance.
Does my new appliance need its own circuit?
Depends on its rating and what’s already on the existing circuit. We check the consumer unit before quoting rather than assuming.
What if the appliance is already installed but was never certified?
We can inspect and test an existing connection and certify it if it meets the standard, or flag what needs fixing if it doesn’t.
Can you connect an appliance the same day as delivery?
Often, yes, if we’re not fully booked. It’s worth calling as soon as you know a delivery date rather than the morning of.
Do you remove the old appliance?
We disconnect it safely, but removal and disposal of the old unit is usually arranged separately, worth confirming with us when you book.
Do gas appliances need an electrician too?
Many gas appliances still need an electrical connection for ignition or controls, and that part of the job is ours even though the gas fitting itself is a separate trade.
What if the new appliance draws more power than the old one?
We check the rating before connecting anything. If the existing circuit isn’t enough, we’ll tell you what’s needed rather than connecting it anyway.